2000 Ford Superduty
7.3 liter Diesel Engine
Lube Oil Bypass Filtration


I feel that the cleaner I keep my lube oil, the longer my engine will last.

To accomplish this, I have installed a bypass filtration system similar to that used on OTR trucks.  I chose to go with a Baldwin filter system, as they are among the very top tier of filter manufacturers, and they have been providing these for decades.

Click on them to enlarge most photos.



Parts

From FleetPride ( www.fleetpride.com )

1 ea - OB1305 Baldwin filter base, $24.89
1 ea - B164 Baldwin filter, $7.87
Above not including tax:   $32.76

From a local steel fabricator:
4-1/2" long piece of steel 2"x4", 1/8" wall "tubing"
I think it was  $5.00

Hardware store:
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers as appropriate
Teflon thread-sealant tape
6" small rubber fuel hose
Wire ties
7 ft plastic wire split-loom (1/2" or so)

From local hydraulic shop, Orme Bros. - Northridge, CA
7-1/2 ft Aeroquip #FC-807-04   Teflon hose, stainless braiding
3 ea Aeroquip #FC8779-0404S   straight crimp fittings
1 ea Aeroquip #FC4098-0404S   90-degree crimp fitting
4 ea Aeroquip #FC3596-04S   crimp sleeves
2 ea Aeroquip #2021-2-4S   flared, straight adapters
1 ea Aeroquip #2021-6-4S   flared, straight adapter
1 ea Aeroquip #2024-2-4S   flared, 90-degree adapter
Total (including assembly charge), under $60.
(but check, as their prices may have gone up a little.)

One hose is 40", the other is 46". The 46" one is the one with the 90-degree on one end.

If you contact Orme Brothers (877-ORMEBRS), and reference this page (be sure to accurately give them this URL) they will make up the hoses and ship them out to you directly. They are GREAT people to work with! They understand racer's and trucker's special needs, and everything is absolutely FIRST quality!



Where I Mounted It

click to enlarge
any photo

This clean, black location is the left-side frame rail just forward of the transmission cross-member. This is where I mounted the bypass filter bracket, using the two existing frame holes shown circled with chalk just under the parking brake cable. Note the black CCV hose above the cable passing by on its way to the rear.



Mounting Bracket

It's made of a 4-1/2 inch long piece of 2" x 4" tube stock of 1/8" thick wall.



Drilling the Frame-side Holes

This is where I drilled the holes that mount this to the frame.



Drilling the Filter-side Holes

These holes are drilled 21/64" for 5/16" bolts. Note the hole pattern is twisted about five degrees counter-clockwise. This is due to the frame rail being at that angle at the mounting location. It avoids water collecting inside the tubing while allowing the filter to mount vertically. To this mounts the Baldwin OB1305 bypass filter base.



Attaching the Lines

This is where to attach the purchased adapters and hydraulic lines to the engine. When routed, use the plastic wire loom to cover the lines for additional abrasion resistance.

The plug in the side of the block where the return line goes has a square, 5/16" recess.  You will need some sort of square drive that size to remove it.  I made one from a 1/2" short bolt, and ground the end down to that square size. See the photo at left for details.



Parking Brake Cable

To get the parking brake cable apart to pass it through the bracket, first chock the wheels, then release the parking brake fully.  Find the joining clip pictured and remove one cable from it.  You may need to loosen the adjuster in the rear of the truck to get enough slack to do this.  Pass the cable through the bracket, re-attach, and re-adjust.



Built-In Flow Restriction

If you're concerned that the bypass system may bleed off excessive oil pressure, be assured that the Baldwin and Fleetguard filters have a built-in restriction to prevent this from happening.



The Finished Product



 

 

 

This is how it looks installed. Notice the parking brake cable and CCV hose pass through the bracket. There is a short section of small fuel line covering the cable for abrasion and rattle resistance. The filter hangs a little low, but not below the transmission cross-member. Turning it 90 degrees is not a good option, though, as these filters should be always mounted base-up if at all possible. The lines are teflon, #4 size, stainless braided, high pressure. The pressure line is 40 inches, the return is 46 inches.

For those that take their trucks off-road, and are concerned about maximizing ground clearance, there are two shorter Baldwin filters that also perform this function: the Baldwin B50, at 5-3/8 inches high, which is two inches shorter than the B164, and the Baldwin BT341, at 4-3/8 inches high, which is three inches shorter than the original.



Does it Work?

For those that would suggest that the B164's filtration ability is not up to that of "another manufacturer", I offer the following:

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On 26 JAN 09, I had a chat with the guy that runs Applications Engineering for Baldwin. Some things I was told:

The B7039 full-flow for the 7.3 is rated at 25 microns, absolute.

The B164 bypass is rated at 15 microns absolute, and that translates to 3-5 microns nominal.

Anything less than 4 microns is, for all intents and purposes, unable to be measured.

Baldwin does not participate in the Micron Wars, but their performance reputation speaks for itself.

Though they no longer have the business of another company "that is more about marketing than testing", he assured me that there was a time that any differences in rated filtration ability would be caused by the paint color ONLY, as beneath that they were IDENTICAL. At the time, that other company was claiming 2 microns for theirs. That other company now has their filters supplied to them by "another reputable manufacturer".

Draw your own conclusions.

Here are my Blackstone Labs reports.  Note the "Comments" sections of them.

219,329 mi
215,775 mi
210,311 mi
206,103 mi
201,337 mi
196,011 mi
191,053 mi
184,845 mi
177,580 mi
169,461 mi
163,471 mi
155,534 mi
148,701 mi
145,836 mi
140,113 mi
137,295 mi
133,120 mi

 

Implementation

I have received a few questions about my procedure, so I'll try to elaborate a little:

After a number of samplings, it was determined that my engine's oil viscosity began shearing down at around 17,000 miles, so.....

I change my dino Delo 400LE oil every 15,000 miles. At the same time I change the full-flow and the bypass filters, and start out with everything fresh. I don't suck out the HPOP like some think is necessary for a complete oil change, as I don't consider the reservoir to have enough volume to make a significant difference.

At 5000 miles on the oil, I change only the bypass filter and send off a sample.

Again at 10,000 miles, only the bypass and a sample.

At 15,000, I again change everything, and send off a sample.

That's one full-flow, three bypass filters, and three samplings for each complete oil change.

I don't feel that there is much cost-savings this way versus just changing the oil each 5000 miles, but I have a LOT more "health information" to show for the money spent.

As always, YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary)



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write: SpringerPop

Last updated 12 DEC 13