The filter base is a standard spin-on base with 3/4 x 16 threads. I use Baldwin filters as I believe them to be the best on the market. The BT111 is for hydraulic filtration applications, and has a built-in 20-PSI bypass valve.  You could use a B2 ( or even a Motorcraft FL-1A ) with a 7-PSI bypass valve if you couldn't find the BT111's.

The plate is a "foundation plate", found in the Simpson Strongtie section at Home Depot. I enlarged a hole and drilled another to mount it on the bumper mounting bolts. A couple of large metric nuts and some Locktite secure the plate up behind the right side of the front bumper.

You can figure out the hose routing. Use the proper hose, rated for ATF! Double-clamp all the hoses using the small fuel-line stainless screw-clamps.

Small neodymium magnets, attached to the filter base plate on the inlet side, collect magnetic sludge the same as the magnet in the trans pan. Better to collect it here, as it's easier to clean off every time you change filters, but this is optional. I've shown small, rectangular ones, and you'll only need a couple of them. They're available from All Electronics, www.allelectronics.com as part number MAG-74. They're fifty cents a piece, so get a few. You'll use them on your refrigerator, too.

The filter should get changed initially at about 5000 miles, then every 15-20,000, unless you implement this addition at the same time you do a pan-drop, convertor-drain fluid change. Then you could likely go 15,000 miles on the first filter. Be sure to clean and re-use the magnets, too, if you used them.

I have done this mod to my last three vehicles and have not had a transmission problem with any of them afterward.

This is where I "tapped in" to the transmission cooler lines to add the external spin-on filter. You're going to need a barbed hose-to-hose connector here, as shown in the bottom center of the picture.

In the photo, the line with the "down" arrow is coming from the transmission. The "up" arrow line is going out to the oil-to-air cooler.

Take the hose loose at the connection to the up arrow steel line, and add the double-ended barbed connector to the removed hose.  Set aside.

Put a new piece of hose on the steel tube with the Up arrow, and run it up to the "in" of the filter.

From the "out" of the filter, run a hose back down to the other half of the barbed fitting previously set aside.

This method does not put the in-radiator cooler after the filter, however, which may be more desirable in the event of a major catastrophic transmission failure. Note the location of the red filter canister on the other side of the frame rail.

It's a good idea to give the lines some additional abrasion resistance, too, by getting some plastic wire looming and running the hoses inside it.

Draw your own conclusions.

Here is a recent Blackstone Labs report for the transmission fluid.  Note the "Comments" section.

Blackstone Report